The Ecuadorian Seaside

Feb 1st, 2008 by SteveM

Well, after arriving last night in the un-seasonal drizzle I awoke to see clear skies. It seems that El Niño, which brings warm currents and more rain, has turned up like an un-invited guest to the Carnival festivities this year. The Ecuadorians will ignore this and turn up in tens of thousands to the coast this coming weekend. But right now, looking out at the sandy stretch of beach
as I sip my morning coffee sitting in the restaurant which has an open balcony on the second floor, I remember Gary’s description of the beach - “when the tide is in only the hotel guests and the residents of the neighboring properties can access it.”

Palmazul Hotel from the beach

Jessica, the owner greets me and I make a mental note to ask her some questions on how on earth she ever came up with the concept of a designer hotel in such a secluded spot. Right now our little group are the only people here but in a few days it turns out they will be full for Carnival; and could have sold out five times over. Breakfast is a buffet affair and reminds me of the sumptuous buffet breakfast at Hotel Quito. I try not to make a pig of myself… but it’s so good it’s difficult. All the staff are newly recruited locals, many who were involved in the fishing industry before. If that’s the case Jessica, or someone, has done a remarkable job of training them because you would never know it. They’re very attentive.

Restaurant is in the open section on second floor

Well breakfast is over but before we head off to Bahia de Caraquez, a town which claims to be ecologically friendly, I must get down to the beach. About 4 years ago I spent a couple of days at San Jacinto the neighboring village just a mile or so to the south. At the time I was struck by the calm swimming waters there and made a mental note to bring my son Luke to this area when he was older. Well I think the time has arrived.

Ecuadorian children enjoy the surf

This beach has a gentle slope so is just right for swimming and sun-bathing. In Ecuador you do have to choose your beaches well; some have a strong undertow. When the tide is out at San Clemente then you can wonder at least a mile north and maybe further around another headland.

The beach is right behind the hotel pool - Take your choice; ocean or pool!

Is it just me or is that distant headland just calling out to us to stroll along the beach when the tide is out?

The beaches here are not to be compared with the Caribbean. Think of a tropical California. Here in this part of Ecuador the coast alternates between rugged headlands, secluded coves and long stretch-for-ever sand beaches. THis is where the irresistible Pacific meets the inmovable mass called South America. And just as California has the fabled Highway One, so Ecuador has its own coastal highway, the Ruta del Sol, which runs from Manta south to Salinas.

One of those long sweeping beaches - did California look like this 50 years ago?

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Back from Bahia I could see an amazing sunset about to take shape. I’m just an enthusiastic amateur photographer but these photos below are for all you sunset lovers - this was a beauty.

The show begins…